IT'S ALL A MATTER OF TASTE

 

Taste occurs when food touches the receptors (taste buds) in our tongues. Humans are able to recognise five basic tastes - sweet, sour, bitter, salty and umami (see below for what it is). Some would add pungent and astringent to the list but they involve the nose as well as the mouth.

 

When we taste food an electrical impulse is sent to our brain where it is translated into a specific taste sensation.


How can we exploit that to our advantage? By aiming to have a balance of flavours in a dish to raise it from average to memorable.


You have made up a dish following the recipe word for word. Then it says, "taste for seasonings," or "taste before serving."


Why? Is there any need when you have done as instructed?


The answer lies in the ingredients used and the length, or lack, of cooking. Depending on whether it is the start or end of the season for fruit and vegetables, or which part of the season they are canned and bottled, there will be a variation in taste. You may have had to substitute one or more ingredients for another or your spices and herbs (if fresh weren't available) may be toward their use by date.


It all adds up to a need to taste food before it is presented at the table.


This is where kitchen alchemy comes into play. Sometimes just a dash of salt will perk up a dish no end, another time it needs a little more correction. Experience and intuition comes into its own here. Don't be afraid to experiment but on the other hand know when to stop. We've all been guilty of adding an ingredient that was totally wrong and had to add extras (often the opposite flavour group) to retrieve the situation.


Sample what you have made. Consider what it needs. Does it need more sweetness, saltiness, or body, would a little sourness improve it, does it need heat, does it lack aroma?


Start with tiny amounts, add one addition at a time, and TASTE after each addition.


Think of your dish as a symphony - which note or musical section is missing. What addition or additions will bring the dish to a harmonious whole. What will make it sing in unison.


Sometimes when you adjust one flavour a second one needs tweaking. So be prepared. Stir in the first adjustment and give it a minute or two to blend in and taste again. Repeat until you've got the counterbalance of flavours you're looking for.


UMAMI (Pronounced Ooo - mah - mee)

 

In my opinion, making full use of, or cooking foods to produce umami, is at the heart of vegetarian cooking.

 

Umami provides a full-bodied flavour to a dish, aroma, plus mouth feel and can contribute to a 50% reduction in salt before there is an appreciable notice of difference. It also highlights sweetness, lessens bitterness and counterbalances saltiness.


Aging, curing, fermenting and ripeness all contribute to umami. So does sautéing, grilling, and caramelizing onions and/or other vegetables.

 

VEGETARIAN FOODS CONTAINING UMAMI:


  • parmesan cheese, Roquefort cheese (not for vegans. Lacto-vegetarians look for vege rennet started ones)
  • wine (some wineries use egg in the processing)
  • balsamic vinegar
  • soy sauce (vegans watch for honey in some soy sauces)
  • wakame, kombu and nori seaweed
  • dried shiitaki or matsutake mushrooms
  • fresh mushrooms
  • green tea
  • vegetable bouillon
  • tomato juice and tomato products
  • sun-dried tomatoes,
  • Worcestershire sauce (see notes below)
  • walnuts
  • grapes
  • falafel, hummus
  • truffle oil
  • potatoes, kumara, pumpkin, carrots, broccoli, Chinese cabbage, peas, corn
  • soy beans
  • Marmite, Vegemite, etc
  • milk, yoghurt, sour cream (not for vegans)
  • fish sauce, oyster sauce (see notes  below)

 

NOTES:

When using Worcestershire sauce make sure it is a vegan one (without fish sauce in the list of ingredients).

Where fish sauce is called for use a light Chinese soy (Tamari), (Shoyu) or (Braggs Liquid Aminos).

Where oyster sauce is called for use a mushroom based soy sauce.


FLAVOUR ENHANCING TRICKS FROM THE ALCHEMIST KITCHEN

The following methods of cooking all contribute to umami and also help to develop a balance of flavours in food.


Sautéing/Caramelising:

Brings out the natural sweetness in foods. It intensifies flavours and aromas. Slow sautéing onions and/or other vegetables (carrots, celery, turnips, swede, choko, capsicum, Florence fennel) on medium heat or lower for as long as you have time for (ideally 30 - 40 minutes or longer) will greatly enhance the end flavour of the dish. Don't sauté beyond a golden colour though. (See the Caramelised Onion recipe on the Preserves Page)


Roasting Vegetables and Fruit:

Brings out the natural sweetness in foods. Also intensifies flavours and aromas. Save the fruit juices, if any. They can be used over or around the fruit when serving.


Poaching:

The poaching liquor can be reduced and used to accompany fruit at serving time.

 

Slow Cooking:

The slower or longer a dish cooks the more flavour it will have. So don't be in a hurry and turn the heat down to a simmer.

 

 

MUMS SAGE ADVICE : Add a little knob of butter at the end of cooking to bring it altogether. Vegans use avocado oil.


INGREDIENTS IN THE ALCHEMISTS' FIRST AID CHEST

Use one, or more, of the following ingredients to set a dish to rights before serving.


  • sea salt (unlocks the flavour of food), powdered kelp
  • 1 tsp vegetable, chicken or beef style stock powders
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp tomato paste or concentrate
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp raw sugar (to diminish fire if too spicy) (mellows tomato dishes)
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp honey, maple syrup, treacle, molasses, pomegranate molasses
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp apple puree or syrup/concentrate
  • a generous knob of butter (my mothers favourite to add meaty mouth-feel)
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp miso, thinned in hot water
  • dash cream (gives body and tones down a dish)(tones down a hot dish)
  • few drops Kaitaia Fire or Tabasco (to amp up flavour)
  • pinch chili powder (to amp up flavour)
  • roasted garlic puree
  • dash smoked paprika (adds smoke flavour)
  • ¼ tsp - 1 tsp liquid smoke (go easy with it)
  • 1 Tbsp - 4 Tbsp nutritional yeast (use when there is too little/too much salt)
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp pesto (ie: basil, sundried tomato, sundried red pepper)
  • ½ tsp - 1 Tsp vegetarian fish sauce, vegetarian oyster sauce (see umami notes)
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp coconut milk powder (tones down the fire if too hot or spicy)
  • fresh ground black peppercorns
  • squeeze of lemon or lime juice (perks up a bland dish)
  • 1 tsp vinegar, flavoured vinegars (counterbalances sweetness)
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp peanut butter or cashew or almond butters (tones down heat)(imparts creaminess)
  • pinch garam marsala (in mushroom dishes)
  • ¼ tsp - 1 tsp ground nutmeg (in mushroom dishes, onion and creamy dishes)
  • pinch cinnamon or cloves (good in chili or tomato dishes)
  • juice of an orange and some zest (good with pumpkin, sweet potato dishes)
  • 1 tsp - 1 Tbsp sherry, cognac (vermouth will add a herbiness)
  • a little tamari
  • 1 tsp Marmite or Vegemite
  • a large piece of kombu seaweed (add and leave to sit for a while then remove)
  • ½ - 1 tsp umeboshi plum paste
  • a dash of mirin
  • the liquid form soaked dried mushrooms (use in soups/stocks)
  • a drop or two of sesame oil
  • a little jar garlic and gingerroot
  • stir in some chopped parsley (will neutralise too much garlic)
  • add a cube of Onion Paste (recipe on Preserves page)


RECAPPING HOW TO BALANCE FLAVOURS

  • Too Spicy - Tone down with some sweetness or creaminess
  • Too Sweet - Add some sourness, or a little heat
  • Too Sour - Add some sweetness or creaminess
  • Too Bland - Try salt and butter, or balsamic vinegar, or grated green ginger juice
  • Too Salty - Add some sourness
  • Too Bitter - Add a touch of acidity
  • Needs Oomph - Add acid and an aromatic at end of cooking plus a cube or two of Onion Paste (recipe on Preserves page)
  • Not Enough Depth - Add some Onion Paste (recipe on Preserves page), avocado oil, or a little nutritional yeast. Next time get more umami flavour into the dish (see tricks above).
  • Too Harsh - Add a touch of sweetness or creaminess

 

TO RESCUE A DISH THAT HAS A BURNT OR SCORCHED FLAVOUR:

  • Try using a combination of peanut butter and coconut powder. Start with small amounts of one or both adding more until the burnt flavour is disguised.

 

ADDING TEXTURE TO A DISH: (Think crunchy, soft, tough, chewy, creamy)

Consider what you're serving it with - pasta, corn chips, toasted breads, croutons, brown rice, couscous, potato mash, etc. Or for desserts - ice cream, cream, custard, etc. What will give it textural balance.


  • a sprinkle of something green (chopped parsley, coriander, basil, chives, etc)
  • olives, capers, caperberries
  • sundried tomatoes, red pepper or artichoke hearts to perk up Italian dishes
  • dried fruits, prunes, apricots
  • nuts - raw, toasted or flaked
  • seeds - raw or toasted
  • chilli - fresh or dried
  • fresh capsicums/bell peppers
  • pickles, chutneys
  • bean sprouts
  • salsas
  • parmesan cheese
  • sour cream
  • chopped glace fruit
  • croutons, crisp biscuit with soft or creamy desserts,


REMEMBER YOU ALSO EAT WITH YOUR EYES:

As well as the fact that the more colour on your plate the healthier it is, but it will also be more visually appetising to eat. Include food from every colour group:

 

RED: tomatoes, water melon, guava, beetroot, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, tomato products, red capsicum/peppers, pomegranates, red apples, red pears

 

GREEN: lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, gooseberries, avocado, bok choy, cucumber, kiwi fruit, peas, green peas, green beans, green capsicums/peppers, courgette/zucchini, honeydew melon, muskmelon, green apples, green grapes, spinach, asparagus

 

WHITE/ BROWN: onions, leeks, garlic, celery, asparagus, artichoke, endive, chives, mushrooms, white wine, potatoes, figs, dried mushrooms, dried beans, chestnuts, dates, prunes, raisins,


BLUE/PURPLE: blueberries, eggplant, grapes, passion fruit, plums, grape products (red wine, grape juice), cranberries, blackberries, plums, eggplant,


ORANGE/YELLOW: kumara, mangos, carrots, apricots, pineapple, sweetcorn, oranges, tangerines, yellow grapefruit, lemons, limes, peaches, papaya, nectarines, pumpkin, acorn squash, winter squash, bananas, yellow capsicum/peppers


NOTE: Frozen vegetables and fruits are as good as fresh if that's all that is available.