PRESERVES

Preserving was par for the course in days gone by. Summer and autumn was spent slaving over a hot stove putting down fruit and vegetables for the cold months.

The current generation is probably the only one not to see their mothers standing over a cauldron of bubbling preserve.

I learnt the art of preserving from watching my mother and female relatives in their kitchens as I grew up. I got to seal the hot bottles with cellophane or screw the lids down on bottles of stewed peaches. It was therefore no big deal when I was old enough to start jam making and bottling all on my own.

After my marriage I began writing recipes I collected in an exercise book. I also pasted in recipes from magazines. Now my book is starting to discolour and fall apart from use. I hope it will stay together long enough for me to refer to it for many more years to come.

JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADE, CONSERVES & BUTTERS

GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE

In the old days nearly every backyard in New Zealand had a poorman's orange tree. The fruit were big, with large pores and many seeds.

Here is what the encyclopaedia of New Zealand says about poorman's orange:
New Zealand's climate is too cool for growing true grapefruit (Citrus paradisi). The fruit grown in New Zealand is variously called poorman's orange, New Zealand grapefruit or goldfruit, and is a hybrid of unknown origins. Sir George Grey imported the parent plant to New Zealand in 1855, and it was propagated and planted around Auckland and Northland.

Now the most used grapefruit has a smooth skin with few pips so much easier to work with.

This, my favourite grapefruit marmalade recipe, has 3 stages which takes place over three days. But it can be condensed into two days, I'll explain in the method.

4 large grapefruit
2 litres water
2 kg sugar

Halve the grapefruit and discard any pips. Slice the fruit into about 3mm slices. Place the fruit into a stainless steel preserving pan or large ceramic bowl.
Cover with water and stand for 12 to 24 hours, stirring once or twice.
Next day bring the grapefruit to the boil (do this in the morning if you want to make the marmalade up later this day), lower heat and cook for 1 to 1½ hours. Cover and leave to cool down or leave for 24 hours.
Either later that day or on the third day bring the fruit back to the boil and cook for ten minutes. Add the sugar, stirring well in between additions to dissolve the sugar then return the marmalade to the boil.
Adjust the temperature until the mixture boils briskly in the centre and froth collects at the edge of the pan.
In the meantime sterilise the jam jars in the oven (I set the oven at 100°C /212°F). If you are recycling bought jam jars place the metal screw lids in a bowl and cover with boiling water.
Begin testing the marmalade after 10 minutes cooking as cooking time can be unpredictable. Place 1 - 2 tablespoons on a saucer and place by an open window (I use the freezer). Run a finger over the surface and if it wrinkles up marmalade is ready to bottle. If you use a jelly thermometer it should read approximately 103 to 105°C /220°F (I find 107°C sets too solid for my liking).   
I rest the marmalade, shifting the preserving pan off the element and leaving it for about 5 minutes (this distributes the fruit in the jell). While you are waiting skim the froth on to a sauce. As a child this is the moment my brother and I waited for. We were allowed to spread it onto bread and gobble it up, yum, warm jam on bread.
Pour the marmalade into the hot, sterile jars and seal with the jars metal screw lid or with a sheet of dampened cellophane and a rubber band.
Wipe the jars with a damp cloth when they are cool. Label them - the date is also helpful.
Store in a cool cupboard.

Makes approximately 8 x 375g commercial size jam jars.

THREE FRUIT GOLDEN SHRED MARMALADE

If you like marmalade that's jelly-like with shreds of peel suspended in it then this is the recipe for you. It also makes a few fruit go a very long way.

The flavour alters depending on the time of the year it's made. Early in the grapefruit season the fruit are more tart, made later the flavour will be more mellow.

I keep any 375g jars jam that comes my way because they are such a convenient size. The lids seal so if there is an ant problem they can't get in. Neither is there a problem with mould.

1 large grapefruit
2 lemons
1 large orange
7 cups water (2 x 3½ cup lots)
7 cups sugar

Wash the fruit well (the total weight should be around 700g) then plunge into boiling water for a few minutes, then drain.
Using a vegetable peeler remove all the peel, setting the fruit flesh aside.
Thinly slice/shred the peel and place in a preserving pan with 3½ cups water and the juice from the peeled lemons. Bring to the boil and cover with a lid, then simmer for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, cut the fruit coarsely and place in another saucepan with any remaining pips, and the second measure of water. Bring to the boil, cover with lid, and simmer for 1 hour.
Strain the fruit through a fine cloth or sieve into the preserving pan of cooked shreds (don't squeeze it otherwise it will go cloudy). Discard the fruit flesh and pips.
Bring to the preserving pan contents to the boil, then simmer for 15 minutes.
Slowly pour in the sugar, stirring until dissolved.
Boil rapidly for approximately 20 - 30 minutes until setting point is reached (described in the Grapefruit Marmalade recipe).
Draw pan off the heat and stand for 15 minutes then pour into hot sterilized jars. Seal with a cap.
Makes 6 x 375g jars jam.

TIP: To sterilize jars.
Place washed glass jars in a 100°C oven for at least 10 minutes. Use an oven glove to remove from the oven and watch as you fill the jars for splattering.

TIP: Be careful not to sit filled jars on a cold bench after filling otherwise they will break.

3 FRUIT GOLDEN SHRED MARMALADE: - PRESSURE COOKER METHOD
Read the recipe above then basically follow the directions.

Squeeze the juice from the lemon into a cup or bowl and set aside.
Place the coarsely chopped fruit in the pressure cooker, cover with lid, add the weight.  Bring up to pressure and then cook for 30 minutes. Reduce the temperature, remove lid, and strain the contents through a cloth or sieve (don't squeeze it otherwise it will go cloudy) into a bowl and set aside. Discard the fruit flesh and pips.
Bring the shredded peel, juice from the lemon, and water up to pressure and cook for 20 minutes. Reduce the temperature and remove the lid.
Add the strained contents to the cooked shred and continue with the recipe (bring up to the boil, then simmer for 15 minutes, add sugar, etc).

PLUM JAM
Flavour-wise and for eye appeal I like a dark plum jam and we're fortunate that our neighbour has a very old tree of questionable origin that we think is Satsuma. It produces ruby red jam.

2¾ kg (6lb) plums, washed
2 cups water
2¼ kg (4½ lb) sugar

Place the fruit in a large preserving pan, add the water, and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat  to a strong simmer and stir from time to time.
Cook until the plums are pulpy and the stones have come free.
Stand a sieve over a large bowl and push the pulp through a sieve to remove stones.
Return pulp to preserving pan and bring back to the boil.
Add sugar and stir until dissolved and leave to boil briskly for 15 minutes. Start testing for setting (described in the Grapefruit Marmalade recipe).
Pour jam into hot sterilised jars. Seal with lids or damp cellophane.

PERSIMMON AND GINGER CONSERVE

I love conserves because of the chunky pieces of fruit throughout the jam.

2 kg persimmons, peeled
1 kg sugar

3cm piece fresh green ginger, grated

Cut each persimmon in to about 8 chunky pieces. Place in a stainless steel preserving pan. Pour the sugar over the top, cover with lid, and leave overnight.
Next day stir in the grated green ginger.
Bring the pan to the boil, stirring.
Cook until it sets (101 - 102° C) approximately 30 minutes (it doesn't set like jam but it will thicken up).
Bottle in sterile jars and seal immediately.

LIME MARMALADE
This is nicer made when the skins on the limes have turned mostly a yellow colour.

1 kg limes, sliced finely
8 cups water
7 cups sugar
¼ cup brandy
¾ cup chopped preserved ginger

Place the sliced limes in a stainless steel preserving pan and pour in the water. Leave, covered with lid, overnight.
Next day cook for 1 hour when the rind should be tender.
Stir in the sugar and bring back to a rolling boil for 15 minutes. Test for setting.
When beginning to set take pan of f the heat and stir in the preserved ginger and brandy.
Stand for 10 minutes. Stir again well, then bottle and seal.

PICKLES, CHUTNEYS, SAUCES & PASTES

PINOT NOIR PLUM SAUCE

I couldn't find a recipe in any of my recipes book or on the internet for a pinot noir plum sauce so had to make up my own. I was thrilled with the results and it always gets compliments on the flavour and colour.

2¼ (5 lb) kg ruby red plums (Satsuma)
2 medium red onions, chopped finely
¼ cup water
1½ kg (3½ lb) plain sugar
2 Tbsp grated fresh green ginger
1¼ cups Pinot Noir wine
¾ cup cider vinegar or red wine vinegar
2 tsp salt
¾ tsp ground cloves
¾ tsp ground allspice
¾ tsp ground nutmeg
¾ tsp ground cinnamon

Place plums, red onions and water in a large stainless steel pan and cook until fruit and onions are tender.
Sieve to remove skin and stones. Return to pan with the remaining ingredients, stirring until sugar is dissolved, and cook until thickened (about 30 minutes) or 100°C on thermometer.
In the meantime sterilise the jars in the oven (I set the oven at 100°C /212°F). If you are recycling bought jam jars place the metal screw lids in a bowl and cover with boiling water.
Pour into hot sterile jars and seal with meal lids.
Ready to use in 3 weeks.

TOMATO AND BASIL CHUTNEY

If you like basil then this recipe should spin your wheels. It's not an in your face flavour instead it's subtle and therefore hard for people to pick exactly what's in it.

1½ kg (3 lb) tomatoes
450g (1 lb) onions, peeled and sliced
450g (1 lb) apples, peeled and sliced
300ml (½ pint) malt vinegar
450g (1 lb) brown sugar
1 tsp salt
1 - 1½ cups tightly packed basil leaves

Scold the tomatoes in hot water to remove skins, the chop up. Place in large stainless steel pan.
Add the rest of the ingredients except for the basil leaves. Boil for 1½ - 2 hours, stirring from time to time. 
Stir in the basil leaves and cook a further hour.
In the meantime sterilise the jars in the oven (I set the oven at 100°C /212°F). If you are recycling bought jam jars place the metal screw lids in a bowl and cover with boiling water.
Pour into hot sterile jars and seal with meal lids.
Ready to use in 2 weeks.

CARAMELISED RED ONION JAM or CONFIT
This is a fantastically useful recipe. Once you have tried it I'm sure you will keep some on hand at all times. It also makes a great gift at Christmas time.

5 Tbsp olive oil
1 kg red onion or shallots, skinned and sliced  
2 tsp grated fresh green ginger
2 tsp finely chopped rosemary or thyme leaves
1 ¾ cups brown sugar
¾ cup balsamic vinegar
⅛ - ¼ tsp fresh ground black pepper
2 tsp mustard seeds

Place the oil in in a large saucepan and add the onions or shallots, ginger, rosemary or thyme. Cook over a gently heat, stirring from time to time until onions/ shallots have softened.
Stir in the brown sugar and balsamic vinegar and cook, stirring from time to time, for 1½ hours until thick and very little syrup remains.
Stir in the black pepper and mustard seeds.
Bottle in sterilised glass jars and seal with lids (I recycle jam /sauce jars with latex lined lids)  
Makes approximately 2 cups.

Note: The shallots I grow are from the King Seeds catalogue -http://www.kingsseeds.co.nz/shop/Vegetables/Vegetable+Groups/Onion+Family/Spring+Onions+%26+Shallots.html

Ways to use Onion Jam:

• As a topping for bruschetta with an extra grind of black pepper before serving.
• Use in toasted sandwiches.
• Use in burgers.
• As a condiment with vegetable dishes.
• On pizzas.
• Add to casserole dishes or soups to give them more depth.
• Party finger food - place a spoon of onion jam in small pasty case and top with mock feta cheese or a strip of roasted red capsicum, egg plant.

ONION PASTE (Let this become the secret ingredient in your recipes)
Onion paste is a wonderfully useful product to have on hand. Not only does it reduce the time needed to cook a dish but it gives a flavour boost to any dish it is added to. The onions cook better if they are not crowded in the pan so it's best made in small quantities.

Alternately, double the recipe but cook each batch separately (in two large saucepans). You may as well keep an eye on two saucepans at once and therefore save some of your precious time. 

Peel, then chop up 4 - 5 large onions.
Place in stainless steel or plastic colander and sprinkle with a 3 - 4 Tbsp salt. Leave onions to stand on the kitchen bench beside the sink to drain for 30 minutes, giving them a stir after 15 minutes.
Rinse well under running cold water then squeeze to remove as much water as you can before drying them in the folds of a clean tea towel.
Place 3 - 4 Tbsp olive oil in a large, heavy based saucepan and add the onions. Give them a good stir to coat with the oil.
Sauté, stirring from time to time, over a medium-low heat until soft, transparent and a light brown colour (lower the heat if they begin to brown too quickly).
Stick blend the onions in the saucepan or remove to a blender or processor and whizz.
Freeze in ice cube trays, tip out into plastic bags, name, and store in freezer for instant use.

To Use:
Put a little oil in a frypan/skillet, add the required number of frozen onion paste cubes and melt gently before continuing on with the dish.

OR simply drop the required number of frozen onion paste cubes into soup, stews, casseroles, etc.

OR add 1 Tbsp onion paste to a recipe in the final minutes of cooking where a flavour boost is required.

• Substitute 2 - 4 Tbsp of onion paste when a recipe calls for a sautéed onion
• Add to soups, stews, casseroles, curries, etc.
• Stir into sauces and gravies and the like
  
• Spread on pizzas

CARAMELISED ONIONS
Properly cooked, caramelised onions can have a surprising depth of flavour. I read where someone called them the "bacon" of the vegan world.

Freeze leftovers so you have some for another day although they should okay in the refridgerator for a few days in a covered container.
Again, this is where it's expedient to cook two panfulls at the same time.

4 onions, peeled, ½'d and sliced
⅓ cup olive oil + extra as needed

Pour the oil into a heavy based pan or frypan/skillet. Add the onions and stir to coat with oil.
Cook over a medium heat, stirring from time to time, until the onions begin to caramelise, adding a little more oil as necessary.
It should take between 30 minutes to 1 hour to do it right (be warned the onions will become dark and loose a lot of volume).
Try adding 1 Tbsp of black bean paste towards the end of cooking to get an even more smoky flavour.

Uses for caramelized onions:

• Add to sandwiches, soups, casseroles, omelet's, sauces, risottos, pasta, pilafs
• Use as a topping for salads, pizzas, or anywhere other people use bacon
• Add to muffin recipes, quiches, frittatas, etc.